Jewell Trigger Tune Up

[cyanchycki]

Some of you are aware that recently I have been tearing appart my triggers and polishing up the internals to smooth them out and crispen there break point.

I then get asked "would you do mine?"  My answer "you can do it.  It is not that hard"  The conversation ends there.

I have decided that I am willing to polish triggers for a fee of $50.00+ return shipping to your address.  At the present this is for BR triggers only.  Turnaround time will be as a first come first serve basis.  Basically a trigger an evening. 

I can adjust as well but you may have to fine tune it to your action.  I may in the near future have some spare springs on hand in case they are in need of replacement.  Quite often you may have a trigger with a poor spring.

If you are interested, PM or e-mail to cyanchyc@mymts.net

[Fergus]

Hi Calvin

I would be interested to know what material/s you are using to polish, and what surfaces you are polishing if you would care to share. I have polished the side plates inside the trigger, but was worried about taking anything off the actual surfaces of the levers inside the trigger. I would be interested in any tips you have to offer, as I am keen to have a go at improving the feel of the trigger pull on the 6 or 7 jewels that I have spread across my various target rifles.

[Bill Gammon]

Hi Fergus
"DO NOT POLISH ANYTHING OTHER THEN THE SIDES" This would include the levers and side plates. I use a crocus cloth on a piece of glass polish until you can see a slight difference in the metal and that should do it. I also use a dremel tool with a buffing wheel for the side plates. Also watch for the trigger spring, if you lose it, the spring out of a BIC lighter will surfice until you get a replacement although you may need to tighten a bit. If you need pictures of the insides of the trigger Email me at bill.gammon@rogers.com

[cyanchycki]

Fergus I am a little more adventurous than Bill is................ LOL

I do not polish the faces, persay, but I do give them a good wipe with cotton patches and Flitz.  I have not had that process hurt anything or make the trigger unreliable in cocking.

I do use some 1000 or 2000 grit on the outside and inside of the side plates.  I tear a small piece big enough that it will basically sit on the end of my index finger and held in place by my thumb.  I do the inside of the side plates.  Not till they shine but maybe a minute.  The outsides I have a mirror that I use as a flat surface.  I lay a piece of the paper on the mirror and do the same.  I use EEZOX as my wet. 

If you have feeling in the tips of your fingers you will understand what Tony talks about in his book.  It kind of feels a bit gritty.  After you are done it is similar to the feeling of silk. 

I then use some Flitz on a patch and rub the both sides of the plates.  Your are removing next to NOTHING in regards to material.  I wash the plates with hot soapy water, dry, and a very LIGHT coat of EEZOX.

The sides of the firing pin block, the upper and lower lever and trigger shoe are done with the 1000 grit.  Depending on how deep the tooling marks are depends on how much I work the sides of the levers.  You will never get the tooling marks out but you will smooth the sides out enough that finishing with Flitz I can almost get a mirror finish on the sides.  It is hard to explain how much I work.  The faces of all the 4 components get the same wipe down with Flitz.  If anything it will knock the burrs down enough to smooth things out.

Now depending on how the creep of the trigger feels, I may rub the face of the sear that contacts the trigger shoe a bit more.  I have a HVR trigger on my Rem 700 that I just cannot get the creep out the way I like it.  I know all I need to do is rub the sear face and area of the shoe that contacts the sear and it will be much better.

I wash these with HOT soapy water, dry and light coat of EEZOX.

EEZOX is WONDERFUL STUFF.  Have yet to have an issue using it. 

Sometimes  you will find that you will never get all triggers the same.  They are there own beasts.  I have one that I WISH all were that good.

The other thing you will sometimes find is a bad spring.  The shoe spring that is.  No matter what you do it feels like it chatters in its slot when you pull on the shoe.  Best to get more springs and change it or if you have a Loupe, you may have a burr or the edge.  Chuck up a Q-tip in your cordless drill, put some Flitz on it and polish that little hole.  It is little but it will/should work.

If I screw up I know where I ahve spare parts.

So that is the secret.  No big secret at all.  It is called having NO FEAR.

Want to talk BAT bolts?

THAT IS A SECRET.................................  ;-)>

Calvin

[Fergus]

Bill & Calvin

Thanks for your comments. I will keep on with my experimenting. So far, I definitely can not remove the creep solely from screw adjustment - I think some kind of polishing might be the answer. Certainly don’t want to kill a trigger though - they are hard enough to get here as it is.

Very happy to talk BAT bolts - still trying to work through their mysteries. The firing mechanism seems critical to BR accuracy, and the whole cock on opening / cock on closing / travel / hand-off / trigger to firing pin tuning is making my head hurt! From my observations, it certainly seems like some BAT bolts benefit from work, though I know of several that shoot very well with no work done on them at all.

[lejarretnoir]

I got a new 1.5oz Jewel coming in the mail. This is the first I've heard about tuning and polishing them.

[Lawrence Hanson]

lejarretnoir:

Here is a link to an extensive discussion regarding this subject.

http://benchrestforum.ca/index.php?topic=319.0

Enjoy,

Lawrence

[cyanchycki]

Just an update on the triggers.

I was about to head out to the range with my .223.  I was just making sure it was cleaned and all ready to go.  Cocked the bolt to dry fire a few times and unfortunatley it would not stay cocked.  Tried over and over, still no luck.  Tried re adjusting, still no luck.  I had no choice but to tear into the HVR.  Pulled the trigger off and that is when I noticed the trigger shoe was NOT returning fully under the pressure of the trigger shoe spring.  Gave some compressed air and still no luck.  Tear down time.

Got into the trigger and did the usual 1000 grit and Flitz polishing.  These triggers take longer as there are about twice as many parts to clean up.  I clean everything up.  Wiped down with a light coat of EEZOX, reinstalled, adjusted and tested out by dry firing.  I am a bit happier.

If you remember earlier I mentioned about some ugly creep I could not get out?  Well when I had the trigger appart I think I found the problem.  The sear on the trigger shoe looks horrible.  It is not ground very nice.  I tackled it very GENTLY to try and knock the grinding/tooling marks down.  It is slightly better but not nearly as nice as I would like to have it.  It appears a call may be in order for a few small pieces.

So if you have some creep that you just cannot get out and you can actually feel the sear sliding over the upper lever, it is more than likely dirt, or a rough surface on the upper lever or sear on the trigger shoe.

I have decided that I will rework the HVR triggers if you so desire.  They will be a bit more as there are more parts to work on.

Jewell BR Trigger..........................$50.00
Jewell HVR Trigger........................$75.00

[cyanchycki]

I have been working on some triggers lately so if you have been thinking about it and would like yours done, now is the time.